J’ai promis à Paul qu’il pourrait lire pourquoi il est unique donc une fois n’est pas coutume, billet anglais pour un aller simple à Henne Kirkeby Kro.
Dear Paul, dear Garrey,
Dear All at Henne Kirkeby Kro,
While Paul and I were sharing this moment, a lovely meal at his restaurant, I told Paul he is unique. As the humble Chef he is, he replied « No, I don’t think so…« . I decided to write him this post in English so he’d read why I do think so and why I think he and his team deserve the ride… thanks to 3 pictures.
The yellow door
When you’ll arrive there (because I really wish you to go there), you’ll fix your schedule in order to arrive at least one hour before the meal time. So you’ll have a moment to visit the garden, hang around, sit on the bench and face the yellow door… The yellow door… Here, at the end of the track… A door in the middle of the countryside. No wall. No roof. Just a door. A closed door that opens your imagination… Behind, is a large space covered with grass. But you can’t retain the feeling that if you actually open the door and enter the other side, you won’t walk on the grass you see… You’ll be in another world… Maybe paradise. Peaceful atmosphere for sure… The idea came out of Garrey and Paul’s minds – who else… The two who had this so poetic idea are also the 2 who orchestrate the moment you spend there. I have nothing to add. This moment can’t not be unique, as unique and sweet as they are.
Mini and baby tomatoes / All from the garden / Tomato water that seems so simple but is really not / A good olive oil (one of Paul’s favorite ingredient) / Few baby leaves of basil from the garden… I remind you we are enjoying a meal in Danemark. But am really not facing a actual-classic Danish way of cooking. Nop, tomato/basil/olive oil… And this won’t happen anywhere else at this part of Europe. This happens here. Because Henne owns his garden that makes Paul be free to cook what he wants as long as it comes from here. And only few Chefs have the humility and creativity to let the tomato be the main actor of such a set-up. You don’t see any technic. You just see the garden. And in mouth, a firework! Because of the different sizes of the tomatoes that roll like a big caviar. It pops and reveals different flavors of tomato. Then your teeth bite the leaf of basil and the green refreshing liquorice flavor underline the tomato’s effect… All the flavors finally dance together, held by the fat of the olive oil… Washed by the tomato water. It is sublime. It is pure. It is a unique Chef giving a unique translation of the unique strength that a garden gives to this Chef (hope you follow me…)
All this takes place at less than 5 kilometers from the ocean… Unique?… At least, quiet rare to me… So of course, before or after your visit to Paul, you will go for a walk on the beach – i went, at this precious moment when the sun falls in the water… But before all, this ocean will be the perfect other characteristic of Paul’s cuisine… Oyster and homemade ham… Lobster in gaspacho… The ocean is there, a stone’s throw away from Henne, and in the plates. As respected and enhanced as the tomatoes.
I could have mentioned many more. The barbecued zuchini that came with pine nuts and parmiggiano. The langoustine in its bisque, and the dried tomato that made us so silent. Or the roasted and caramelized peach, served in a smoked-strawberry coulis… The bread! The butter!!!… I could mention the wines also… Or the fish & chips that makes people come again and again.. I stop talking… Paul, please, just know that you are unique and that I really love you. Know that what you do is giving happiness to people, and enjoy this wonderful duty… And remember you can say no and rest sometimes ; you know what am talking about.
Lots of Love to all of You at Henne.
A special thank you to Flemming who made this happen.
Henne Kirkeby Kro